Have you visited Khan el-Khalili yet? Ambassador Manzoor-ul-Hasan asked as he slowly sipped his ahwa—the traditional Egyptian coffee. He was Pakistan’s Ambassador to Cairo and it was through his gracious hospitality that the doors of this remarkable city had opened for us. Farhan, the Third Secretary, glanced at us before replying, “Sir, we have just returned from the Pyramids.” “Oh, then you must be exhausted.” The Ambassador looked at us with a knowing smile. “What is there in Khan el-Khalili?” I asked. He smiled gently and replied, “Khan el-Khalili is the heart of Cairo.” Those few words began to beat inside me like a living heart. I looked towards Moazzam Sahib and speaking on behalf of both of us, declared that we were not tired at all. “Then leave immediately,” the Ambassador said as he rose from the dining table. Cairo’s traffic reminded me of Karachi’s Saddar: one enters by choice but returns only if fortune permits. We inched through the endless stream of vehicles until we finally reached Khan el-Khalili, an ancient bazaar where the craftsmanship of skilled artisans mingles with the aroma of freshly brewed ahwa, captivating every visitor. As I stepped out, my hand instinctively rested against an old stone wall. “Please stay exactly where you are,” Farhan said, taking a photograph before smiling and adding, “The wall you are leaning against belongs to Al-Azhar.” Everything within me changed forever.
The thought that in a few moments I would walk into one of the oldest centres of Islamic learning filled me with excitement. Yet Farhan’s next words—that we would not be visiting Al-Azhar just yet—left me quietly disappointed. “This is Al-Muizz Street,” he continued. “It is the world’s largest open-air museum. In front of you stands the Mosque of Imam Hussain. According to tradition, the blessed head of Imam Hussain rests here.” paused before continuing. “Along this single street stand dozens of mosques, madaris and palaces dating from the Fatimid, Ayyubid, Mamluk and Ottoman periods. That is the Mosque of Muhammad Abu al-Dhahab, whose dome has become one of Cairo’s landmarks. And there is Bab Zuweila, through which the grand processions of the Mamluk sultans once passed.”
Farhan continued speaking. I heard every word, yet none of it seemed to reach me. My thoughts had already gathered around the Mosque of Imam Hussain and the sacred soul associated with it. When he finally finished, he smiled and asked, “So, where shall we go first?” There was no need for discussion. Our feet had already begun moving towards the Mosque of Imam Hussain. History relates that during the Fatimid era, the sacred head of Imam Hussain was brought from the land of Palestine to Cairo. It was a journey filled with devotion and profound love. Those fortunate enough to accompany that blessed caravan were said to have become forever immersed in its fragrance—a fragrance that remained with them throughout their lives. That same fragrance seemed to flow through my veins. Moazzam Sahib and Farhan walked beside me, yet I scarcely noticed them. Al-Azhar stood behind me, yet even it had disappeared from my awareness. The broad courtyard leading from the street to the mosque, along with the crowds of worshippers, dissolved into nothingness. Only a single speck remained in this vast universe, carried forward by an unseen current—closer and ever closer, do not know when that insignificant particle drifted into the multitude of devotees and finally entered the sanctuary of the Beloved, where it found a place at his feet. Awareness returned only when I heard Farhan say,
“Come, let us first offer two rak’ahs of Tahiyyat al-Masjid.” As soon as we finished, the mukabbir called the congregation to prayer and the rows began to straighten. Whether it was Dhuhr or Asr, I cannot now recall. A thought crossed my mind. “We are in the Mosque of Imam Hussain. Surely the Twelver Shi’a tradition must be predominant here.” But the very next moment the Imam proclaimed “Allahu Akbar,” and the prayer began. After that, who was Sunni and who was Shi’a? Everything disappeared. Before us stood only the One for whose sake the noblest and bravest of men had sacrificed his blessed head.
When the prayer concluded, invocations of forgiveness and salutations upon the Prophet (Peace be upon him) echoed through the mosque, followed by the chant: “Al-Qahirah fiha al-Hussain”—Cairo is the city that embraces Hussain. As we approached the sacred shrine, I saw a young man place his hand upon his heart, lower his head and enter with complete humility. I soon found myself beside the silver lattice, offering my humble salutations to the Prince of Martyrs. A question arose within me: how had his blessed presence come to Cairo? It seemed as though Sultan Salahuddin Ayyubi stood nearby with his head bowed.
The Sultan and the Fatimid Caliphs belonged to the same era. As Salahuddin rose like a storm, Fatimid authority began to crumble. It was during those turbulent days that, fearing Crusader attacks, the Fatimids decided to transfer the sacred head from Ascalon in Palestine to Cairo. There are several historical traditions regarding the burial of Imam Hussain’s blessed head. One places it in Karbala, another in Palestine. The Fatimids accepted the Palestinian tradition and, in 548 AH, brought it to Cairo, where the present shrine was established. Since then, it has remained a destination for countless pilgrims. After bringing the Fatimid Caliphate to an end, Salahuddin dismantled many Fatimid monuments. Silently I asked, “This shrine too is a Fatimid legacy. How did it survive?” He seemed to reply without words: “Any place associated with these blessed souls acquires sanctity of its own.” His bowed head conveyed more than speech ever could. With tearful eyes, I kissed the silver lattice one final time, offered my farewell salutations and slowly walked out. It felt as though I had awakened into another age. Outside, Moazzam Sahib and Farhan awaited me at famous El Fishawy Café over fragrant ahwa.
—This writer is former advisor to the President of Pakistan, author & mass media theorist.
(farooq.adilbhuta@gmail,com)
